A watch can be divided from the composition of its accessories, divided into seven parts:case, dial, hands, bar, strap, buckle, and movement. The components of these seven parts and the quality of materials, appearance and structure determine the final grade and value of the finished watch. Moreover, these seven parts must be matched with each other and the requirements are consistent to be harmonious and beautiful. Our understanding of watches also starts from these aspects.
The movement belongs to the “heart” part of the watch. Factors such as the origin, material, craftsmanship, function and accuracy of the movement determine its quality and grade.
Movements are classified by structure: mechanical movements, quartz movements, electronic movements and so on.
Simple identification of a quartz watch or a mechanical watch. Usually, the literal or back cover of the watch indicates whether it is QUARTZ or AUTOMATIC, so you can know which is a quartz watch or an automatic mechanical watch. Another way to identify is to look at the walking mode of the watch’s second hand. If the second hand is jumping every second, then this watch is a quartz watch; on the contrary, if it is not jumping, it is a mechanical watch. (If the second hand is found to move for two or four seconds at a time, this model is still a quartz watch. When this phenomenon occurs, it informs you that the watch in your hand needs to be replaced now, because some of the better-designed quartz watches have this device , Will walk for four or five seconds at a time to inform you in advance that it is time to replace the battery.) What we need to focus on is the understanding of the quartz movement.
Movements are classified by function: two-needle machine, three-needle machine, six-needle machine, single calendar machine, double calendar machine, alarm machine, multi-function movement, etc.
The origin of the movement is divided into: domestic movement. Japanese movement. Swiss movement. (“SWISS MADE” is a Swiss original movement; “SWISS PART” is a Far East machine assembled from Swiss parts and Far East. The bottom plate of the movement is generally marked with relevant characters as a logo. These two movements of the same model, There is a big difference in price.)
Professional knowledge points:
1) The order of the movement must require that the battery factory date cannot exceed 6 months.
2) For the same type of movement, there are several positions of the calendar window (3H, 6H, 4H, etc.), which are not universal.
3) In order to meet the needs of different thicknesses on the surface, there are also many kinds of needle posts for the movement, including No. 1, No. 2, and No. 3, etc. Must be determined by engineering accounting
The purpose of the watch case is to assemble the movement, the surface and the hands. Protect the internal structure. Meet waterproof requirements. Manipulate movement functions. And as the exterior decoration and artistic expression of the shell.
The accessories and structure of the watch case will be described in detail in the following chapters.
The watch case is divided according to the structure: single case, one case and one circle, and multiple combined cases.
The case of the watch is divided according to the shape: round shell, square shell, wine barrel shape, goose egg shape, special-shaped shell…
The watch cases are classified according to their materials:) Plastic, alloy, copper, steel, titanium, tungsten steel, ceramic…
1) Plastic watch: a watch case made of plastic one-time molding. The mold cost is relatively large, and the subsequent processing volume is small. If mass production, the cost is relatively low. Generally, cheap electronic movements are assembled. Most of the low-grade gift watches on the market.
2) Alloy shell: Generally, it is made of zinc alloy casting. The material is light and easy to process, and the surface of the workpiece needs to be electroplated. The production cycle is short, the output is large, and the price is low. Water resistance, wear resistance, and corrosion resistance are poor. Belongs to low-end watches.
3) Copper shell: It is made of copper material and processed by pressing or casting. The copper shell has the advantages of easy processing, beautiful appearance, good waterproof performance, surface wear resistance and corrosion resistance. Moderate price is its advantage. The surface of the workpiece needs to be electroplated. Belongs to mid-range watches.
4) Steel shell: 304, or 316L steel, processed by pressing or casting. The steel is of stable material, good waterproof performance, wear-resistant surface, and strong corrosion resistance. It also has the advantages of anti-rust, anti-magnetic, high strength, environmental protection (skin allergy is not easy to occur when wearing). But the processing is more complicated, the output is small, and the price is high. Generally used in high-end quartz watches and mechanical watches. Belongs to high-end watches. It is also the part we need to focus on.
5) Tungsten steel, ceramics: difficult to process, not easy to wear, special materials. Generally used in higher-end watches.
Surface: also called literal, dial. It is the part of the dial visible below the open surface. Generally with numbers, branch lines, etc.
The purpose of the surface: display time. And for appearance design and decoration.
The literal face of a watch is like a human face. Whether a watch can please consumers depends largely on the design and production of the surface. Pay close attention to it, the surface has the most chance of collision with the line of sight, and the attractiveness of the surface can most arouse people’s desire to buy.
The surface material is generally copper sheet. After stamping, drilling, touching the feet, polishing, corrosion, turning, electroplating, oil spraying, printing, pasting up, installing real nails… a series of processing procedures can complete a surface.
The hands are the indicator hands of the time display.
The material of the hands is generally made of copper. In special cases, aluminum needles can also be used to reduce weight.
Types of hands: ordinary three-hand machines are divided into hour, minute, and second hands. The six-hand machine also adds three small seconds for breaking timing/accumulating timing. Some have alarm hands with alarm function, because the functions of the movement are different, the purpose of the hands is also different.
According to different shapes, there are many names: sword-shaped needle, ding-shaped needle, window needle, flat needle, batch flower needle, fuel injection needle, hollow needle, luminous needle…
The various patterns of the hands on the styles are completely decorative for the exterior design.
Professional knowledge points:
1) Luminous quality is also classified: ordinary luminous, Swiss luminous 4 hours, Swiss 8 hours super luminous. Different grades of luminous have different costs. Therefore, if the guest has no special requirements, it is usually used to return to ordinary night light.
5.Bar, Bar tube.
Pakistan’s bar tube, some factories are also called dragon head dragon tube.
The purpose of the bar: stop the movement, adjust the time, adjust the calendar, etc. Secondly, it is the exterior decoration. Bars are classified according to their structure: ordinary bar, T-tube bar, double-O ream waterproof bar, screw bar…
Ba’s are classified according to their appearance: round, square, hexagonal, octagonal, bu-headed, flat-headed, car pit, toothed, south claw, epoxy, stone inlaid…
Materials of Pakistan: copper, steel (316F material), etc.
The purpose of the strap: to wear the wrist. It also distinguishes the word “watch” from “pocket watch”, “bag watch”, “ring watch”…
Straps are mainly divided into materials: belts, metal belts (tungsten titanium alloy belts, solid steel belts, solid copper belts, solid powder metallurgy steel belts, steel strips, steel wire braided belts, etc.), plastic belts, ceramic belts, nylon braid band…….
There are many types of belts: PU belts, leather belts (usually calfskin, English calf, and the patterns on the surface can be pressed into various patterns), real lizard belts, real fish belts, real snake belts, real chickens Foot belt, real devil fish belt, real crocodile belt…
Professional knowledge points:
1) The belt is divided into long and short belts, 6H is long belt, 12H is short belt. The length requirement is generally 120*75 for male dealers and 115*70 for female dealers.
2) The width of the belt head is generally an even number. For example, 24.00, 22.00, 20.00, 18.00. The shell ears shall prevail.
3) According to the width of the belt, there are straight belts (that is, the width from the head to the end of the belt is the same), and the handle belts (that is, the width becomes narrower from the head to the body). The width of the belt is an even number. For example, 24.0-20.0, 22.0-20.0, 20.0-18.0, 18.0-16.00, etc.
4) According to the thickness of the lead and the body, it can be divided into: flat belt, oblique belt, and high (T-shaped) belt. The thickness of the strap can be determined according to the shell ears, and the thickness of the strap is generally 2.80-3.20. To facilitate buckle and wear.
5) According to the effect of the head matching shell, it can be divided into: ordinary full drop band, twin ear band, rubber head band (fixed effect).
6) According to the shape of the tail: flat tail, square tail, pointed tail, apricot tail, Seiko tail…
7) The methods of edging include: full wrap, half wrap, trimming. Some belts have a double-bread side structure and can be used on both sides.
8) Belt marks: Generally, short belts press customers’ marks. The length is pressed with leather lettering.
9) Other nouns for belts include: rubber through, raw circle, dead circle, fabric, bottom, car thread, press edge…
10) There are also many kinds of steel belts: sheet-wrapped belts, side-wrapped belts, and solid steel belts.
11) The more solid core belts are used: beer bead belt, pull stick material belt.
12) Accessories for steel belt assembly: lead with ears and steel needles. Use steel needles for body beads and hairpins for folding beads. Others include picture-and-socket, screws, screw rods, etc.
13) The other nouns of steel belt include: lead bead, beer bead, body bead, disassembled bead, middle bead, side bead, tail bead (bead assembly)…….
14) Adhesive tape has differences in materials such as PC, PU, and silicone tape. PC material is relatively hard and brittle, and PU material is moderately hard and soft, so it is used for more watch straps, especially sports models. Silicone is softer, tougher, and more transparent. It is mostly used for women’s fashion straps.
The purpose of the buckle system: used to adjust the length of the strap, buckle the straps on both sides to complete the wearing function.
The shape of the button is mainly for appearance design.
According to the material, the buckle system is divided into: aluminum buckle, copper buckle, 304 steel buckle, 316L steel buckle.
The buckle system is divided by style: square buckle (with Lizai), duckbill buckle (with Lizai), single-open butterfly buckle, double-open butterfly buckle, double-open double-click butterfly buckle, turtle back buckle, turtle back slingshot buckle, insurance Turtle button, jewelry button…